diff --git a/How-you-can-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md b/How-you-can-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5623c36 --- /dev/null +++ b/How-you-can-Replace-the-Fluorescent-Starter-in-A-Windhager-Bug-Zapper.md @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ +
Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. In the summer time, bugs are all over the place. Faced with this situation, defence in depth is the only option: window screens, bats, Odonata on the pond, fly strips on the windows and swatters in every room, and because the last stage of terminal defence, excessive voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These usually are not elegant gadgets, but they get the job accomplished. The precept could not be simpler-flying insects, whose compound eyes see long-wave ultraviolet mild that mammalian eyes don't, are attracted by the lure tube, which seems to emit a dim blue mild to humans. To reach the sunshine, they have to fly between wires electrified with between four and eight kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, kill-a-bug. The only drawback (at least if you aren't a flying insect) is that they do not seem to last very lengthy. After a little more than one summer, the bulb either starts to flash on and off like a strobe mild or just refuses to mild at all.
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Replacement bulbs are readily available and simple to install, but in my expertise, not less than half the time replacing the bulb doesn't fix the problem. With no mild to draw the insects, a zapper is ineffective, so although its excessive voltage subsystem continues to work completely, most individuals junk it when changing the bulb doesn't make it light up. I'm way too cheap to be proud of such a state of affairs, so I determined to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was happening. The supply of the issue proved to be as simple as I anticipated and as simple to remedy, so in the hope of saving anyone else the difficulty of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on how one can repair your own bug zappers. These instructions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager firm of Salzburg, Austria, who have a dominant market share on this obscure industry right here in Central Europe.
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Obviously, if you have a bug zapper made by another firm, it's going to look totally different inside and will conceivably use an entirely completely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you understand what you are doing and [Zap Zone Defender](https://gogs.ra-solutions.de/coykearns10538/5020uv-bug-zapper/wiki/Mini+Bug+Zapper+%2526+Lantern) know enough electronics to be confident you're not going to do something silly, it is best to leave issues properly sufficient alone and get a brand new bug zapper. Further, we're going to be disassembling and modifying a machine which, when opened up, has uncovered connections to probably lethal mains current and very unpleasant if not deadly high voltage. If you're sufficiently silly or scatterbrained that you're likely to neglect to tug the mains plug before sticking your hand contained in the guts of a bug zapper, you must cease studying immediately and choose some safer undertaking, [mosquito zapper](https://git.zimerguz.net/lutherfriedman) like making microwave popcorn. First of all, before beginning this process, be sure to try replacing the bulb and see if that fixes the problem.
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If it does, you've got saved a whole lot of time and, if not, you are going to need a alternative bulb ultimately, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a new bulb does not do the trick, the problem is sort of definitely a failed fluorescent starter contained in the field, so we'll have to open it up. You probably did remember to unplug the zapper before starting to disassemble it, did not you? First, take away the bug catcher tray at the bottom of the zapper, taking care not to spill dead bugs all around the ground or your work space. Depending on the model, [Zap Zone Defender](https://support.ourarchives.online/index.php?title=Bug_Zappers_May_Do_Extra_Harm_Than_Good) the two halves of the physique of the bug zapper are fastened together with four or six screws. On "industrial" models, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and [Zap Zone Defender](https://git.autotion.net/chiquita112730) nuts, but some "consumer" fashions use infernal "split slot" screws which are meant to keep you from opening up the machine. You see, you're a shopper, so you are anticipated to eat-purchase, buy, purchase, not mend things which break.
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